thom browne spring 2027 women’s collection
tuesday, september 15, 2026
new york, new york

spring in thom’s garden is ushered in by stark contrasts. the vibrant coloring and organic form of insects and plants complement the geometric order of checks seen in airy madras plaids, grid check pique, checked cashmere, and faux fur intarsia. pleating and asymmetrical embellishments accent structured tailoring...

a cocoon is formed and a fantastical world is brought to life…
oversized… every sense awakened…

jacquard grasshoppers are nestled beneath tufts of embroidered grass, sequin fly and moth appliqués flutter across overcoats and pleated skirts. ants materialize in gold bullion thread and red and black intarsia. bees tend to their hive on a chesterfield overcoat. butterfly wing embroidery and dragonfly jacquard have a mosaic-like effect while wool swiss dot tailoring, raffia tipping, and an array of tweeds amplify texture. some tweeds mimic green pastures and pink flower gardens while others are woven with organza, grosgrain, and exaggerated pouf yarns…

mesh, silks, tweeds, oxfords, and plaids form the patterned bodies of beetles: the ladybug, the weevil, the tansy beetle, and the goliath beetle. intarsia bikinis and anatomical color blocking form the irregular markings of the tree frog in silver lamé and poison dart frog in navy wool twill…

across accessories and footwear: grasshopper clutches in pink, orange, green, and yellow; kaleidoscopic micro beetle attaché cases in panels of carefully cut and stitched pebble grain and patent leather; the teviot tortoise frame bag draped with leather butterfly wings. platform heels and pumps comprised of patent leather, pebble grain leather, pony, suede, and crystals to create bees, dragonflies, caterpillars, and more. platform heels tower over the former, color blocked and accented with leather butterfly wings…

the black widow emerges wrapped in black silk duchess satin, silk moiré, and mohair bearing a distinctive red mark. two-button halter vest dresses form the exoskeletons of crickets, while an oiled leather moto jacket forms the body of a fly in silk tailoring. the silkworm’s brushed white alpaca wool sportscoat and tiered pleated skirt stand in contrast…

the cocoons form, appliquéd with butterfly wings as a foreshadowing of their final form. their outer shell, a rounded heavy wool sportscoat…

the butterflies emerge. the leopard lacewing, the emerald swallowtail, the arizona hairstreak, the purple emperor, the scarlet mormon, the rajah brooke’s birdwing, the rothschild's birdwing, the apollo, the sapho longwing, the painted lady. slung low on the hip, their pleated handkerchief hem skirts swivel and sway around high-neck one-piece swimsuits. their delicate dance welcomes a metamorphosis...