women's and men's couture 2024 collection
paris, france
june 24, 2024
the toile as the source text...
the toile as the final garment...
the work-in-progress becomes the final work...
couture begins with the silhouette in muslin. while collections are historically shown in a complete state, the couturier and client ultimately return to the source text—the toile. the thom browne 2024 couture collection celebrates these initial transcriptions. this dream-like phase of couture comes to life using natural, untreated muslin. the atelier’s rigorous approach elevates the test phase by way of extraordinary detail. one-of-a-kind expression for the true individual.
different weights of muslin and horsehair canvas expose intricate layers of work, an important part of thom browne’s commitment to recontextualizing classic tailoring. usually hidden as an intermediate layer, chest canvasing is used to create patterns and shades. shape and structure are achieved by hand-basting muslin and canvas—an exacting old-world technique, lost to time, revered at thom browne.
the same cross-stitch present in all thom browne tailoring frames the muslin path in the center of a greige muslin-dressed salon at the musée des arts décoratifs. the backdrop: a wall with muslin columns echoing the institution’s belle époque architecture.
the games begin beneath the glow of five luminescent spheres. spectators arrive in custom muslin smocks, each of their names in calligraphy on classic thom browne tags. at the center of the hall, sixteen athletes in summer-weight cotton tailoring compete for glory in tug-of-war. bodies in tension, a show of strength. back and forth, back and forth. the back and forth brings forth a winner.
instructed by their coach, the athletes clear the arena for the collection...
in various weights of muslin... they are sculptural works in progress with laurel leaves upon their head...
hallmarks of american sport are de-and-reconstructed, layered and cut, carefully assembled and molded into organic, voluminous shapes. the silhouette reaches down from strong shoulders and out from the empire waist. the intricate construction process and the bones of the garment are revealed: hook-and-eye closures, raw edges, and cross-stitching. embroidered grecian figures in sequins and bugle beads—the archer, javelinist, disc thrower, wrestler, and weightlifter—capture the vigor and grace of athletic movement.
tailored sport coats and modular aprons. lace back and pleated front hourglass corsets...
strips of muslin are individually stitched to metallic threads before being hand knit to form oversized cardigans... a knife pleated tennis skirt and a sheer trouser...
on your marks...
lace-up track heels and boots follow the form of a track athlete in the moments of tension before the start of their race...
in a final celebratory sweep arrives the bride, the victor’s bouquet wrapped in her mermaid dress embroidered with mother-of-pearl artwork and beads from matte to iridescent...
in gold, silver, and bronze with degrade metallic foil and stacked bullion, the medalists take their places on the podium awaiting the ultimate prize.
the toile as the source text...
the toile as the final garment...
sculptural works in progress reveal the beauty in the process...
heritage techniques are realized, without compromise, in muslin...
classic ideas, reconceptualized...
couture is the olympics of fashion...